Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 8:31 pm Post subject: Double Horse 9104 skidding sidways
Hi there,
New to modern choppers - used to fly 30 years ago without gyros! however having a problem with this 9104.
It slips to the left (port) and I have put weights in the right skid to stop this but to no effect. It seems that it needs swash plate adjustment but there is none! In a youtube presentation a guy had the same problem but the opposite and managed to [/color]fix it..
Joined: 20 Mar 2009 Posts: 690 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:58 am Post subject:
Hi Capt Martin,
Welcome to the forum, firstly any helicopter with a tail rotor is going to try to travel to Port it is just the dynamics of the tail overcoming the torque effect of the main rotors, you need to feed in a little right aileron on take off the effect goes away once airbourne.
I would not endorse the modification of the swash plate shown in the video, for a swash to work properley it needs to have three identical servos setups driving it, but adjusting the length of one servo arm the swash is no longer travelling level through its full range of travel. In his case it made it flyable but it would be unpedicable to fly.
His swash appeared to have adjustable links from the servos ?
A Blade 400 or 450 would give you a better platform to start from and a wealth of information to get you going. _________________ Keep your rotors spinning
Thanks a lot for your swift reply which is very informative..
I have managed to lift the chopper off about a foot but still slips left. If there was an aileron (cyclic swash plate) it would be a doddle to trim but there isnt. The tail rotor control works fine but no aileron effect. The swash plate is held horezontaly port/starboard and the plate only moves forward and back. (up and down)
The YouTube shows a weight on the left skid but I have put on more on the right skid but it seems the geometry is set to take the machine to port!! The guy adjusted the forward geometry which is fine for him, mine is ok as is so, I will bite the bullet and take her up to say 6' which will be well out of ground effect and let you know how I get on...
Joined: 17 Jan 2008 Posts: 1349 Location: Redding, Northern Calif.
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:51 am Post subject:
Do not weight the heli to stop the left drift.
If the swash is level, then you are dealing with what it normal.
Between the torque of the main rotors and the thrust of the tail you get a left slide. It happens on small helis and even the 600 and 700's that I fly.
You have to learn how to "pop" the heli in the air and at the same time give it just a tiny bit of right aleron to hold it in one place.
Once in the air the heli will not slide about, this seems to only happen on lift off. _________________ Trex 450V1...Trex 600Nitro Flybarless, Outrage Velocity 50 flybarless. Frenzy V2 50.
Crashing is just a landing that cost you money..
Joined: 29 Aug 2011 Posts: 160 Location: south-central Ohio
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 7:13 am Post subject:
Great advise from someone who knows, but his
machine has no aileron. I think it`s a 3channel.
Not too much You can do, but punch it, & go
for it. I`d try it, if I didn`t have to buy it.
Joined: 17 Jan 2008 Posts: 1349 Location: Redding, Northern Calif.
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:49 am Post subject:
I just watched the video on it.
Sorry, but I have to say it. What a piece of junk.
If you have to modify the hell out of something to make it fly right, then it should be returned and the money spent on a quality hobby grade heli that you can grow into and get good product and customer support.
I wish you well with your new heli, but I would seriously save up for a better one that will allow you to progress in the hobby.. _________________ Trex 450V1...Trex 600Nitro Flybarless, Outrage Velocity 50 flybarless. Frenzy V2 50.
Crashing is just a landing that cost you money..
This maybe the last comment on this!! Why you ask? Well I bite the bullet and yes went beyond the ground effect and it stopped skidding and the trim was ok'ish however, there seemed to be a glitch and the machine rose majesticly higher and higher AND HIGHER well there was a slight breeze and the controls failed to effect anything and away she/he went.
Over the roof, ever higher and into the distance and then he/she fell to earth - I know not where. I have been walking and knocking on doors and looking in trees, roofs and gardens.
Just finished a note to put in all the doors in the area and you never know.
If it comes back, I will check the radio but I feel it failed so a wire de soldered or a chip failed who knows - it's not a disater but a little infuriating..
Many thanks for the short lived advice..
Capt. Martin.. ps I have had at least 6 radio choppers years ago, never once did my Futaba and Sanwa systems fail - pilot error - off course
Joined: 15 Jan 2010 Posts: 924 Location: suffolk UK aged 57
Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:00 am Post subject: post subject
I wouldn't bother with posting the notes Capt Martin you might be really unlucky and get the heli back, ha ha. Take the good advice from crashagain and save up for a decent model. To enjoy the hobby properly you need an absolute minimum of 4 channels.
What can I say guys, The attached photo was one of my early machines, Shlutter Mechanics Full Collective and no GYRO!
The photo was taken in Southern Spain.. yes I flew there and in the UK but things happen and you drift away. The co=axial machines that cheat are great in the house so may stick to those for the time being. I am disabled and running around is a thing of the past for me.
Regards and again thanks for the advice.. and NO it has not been found ha ha.. maybe the best thing, does anyone want some brand new spare blades .... better hang on to them just in case!
Joined: 15 Jan 2010 Posts: 924 Location: suffolk UK aged 57
Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:49 am Post subject: post subject
You had me fooled Capt i thought you were a beginner but you are actually a pioneer from the early days when heli's were even more of a challenge than they are now. If you prefer to stay indoors there are some great small 4 channel models that you can fly for some real heli fun. You can have coaxial or single rotor machines and something like the Blade msr is a big favourite. There is a flybarless version due out soon and that should be better still. Very durable and most importantly spares are easy to get from just about anywhere. Another big plus is that it will actually do what its supposed to and that is to fly straight from the box without needing fixing first.
Again, thanks for the advice which I will take, yes I was there at the begining, don't know if the British Radio Control Helicopter Association still exists but I was No 4 !! I have have other photos but not scanned.
Unfortunatly they are in the loft and access is a bit difficult but when I do I'll post them on here.. the Huey Cobra was fantastic all 72" of it.
Regards
Attached a Dave Boddington (Deceased) BarnStormer hitting a limbo pole
Joined: 04 Nov 2008 Posts: 3625 Location: Santo Estêvão, East Algarve, Portugal. 76, but still feels 18.
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:44 pm Post subject:
Got to agree with you there Capt,
A co-ax indoor flight in a restricted space can be quite an event. The control tends to be in millimeters not inches (or even feet)! O.K. so no 3D, but engaging a small loop with a hook slung under the heli to pick up a dinky-toy car requires some accurate flying, especially if you are nose in. Flying under a table and coming back to land on it is great fun, especially sideways on! I find lots to do from a chair when the wind, heat or rain are too much for outside biggies to be flown.
Joined: 15 Jan 2010 Posts: 924 Location: suffolk UK aged 57
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:02 pm Post subject: post subject
Range checks are still an important part of r/c flying. If you had a £1000
model it would not be much fun to watch it disappear over the horizon.
An out of control heli of any size could cause severe damage to people or property.
Last edited by chopper54 on Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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