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Hausler 450 p heli trouble shooting


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golfsoccer9
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 2:11 pm
PostPost subject: Hausler 450 p heli trouble shooting
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Hello all, I'm new to RC Helicopters and to the forums. I recently though i'd attempt to fly my "Ready To fly" out of the box RC Helicopter that I got for Christmas. I plug up my battery and turn on the transmitter and the helicopter goes crazy. So I look up a bunch of info and such for help. Well I programmed the transmitter, not sure If I programmed it correctly though. My servos heads; the vertical, right, and left, won't stay horizontal. Even if I make adjustments with the sub trim via t6 config, I can only get maybe the left and right ones to become horizontal. And when I plug up the battery to the heli, the servos just reset themselves to different positions. In addition, I can't seem to get my rotor blades to spin anymore. Before I tinkered with everything, the rotor blades were able to spin. Now, only the little plastic spindles under the rotors spin. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:28 pm
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Hello and welcome to the forum.
The Hauseler 450 SEV2 is a clone T-rex 450SEV2 so spares are ubiquitous. The problem with those transmitters, however, is the need to connect to a computer to change program settings.

Two questions
#1 Do you have a manuals?
If not download one from here:-
http://parkrcmodels.com/instruction/HAU450V2RTF1_version1s.pdf
ZD fly T6A Programming instructions from here:-
http://parkrcmodels.com/instruction/ZDF-T-6A_HAU450V2RTF1_Prog_v2.pdf
On youtube.com watch this video:-
‘cheapest trex 450 clone helicopter build / setup #8'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZrX86s2LIM
There is a series of videos from MickeysRC.com that will help sorting out your transmitter and heli.

#2 Do you have training gear?
If not get yourself a set and fit it before attempting your first flight. It will delay the onset of purchasing spares.



Burgess


Last edited by Burgess on Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:40 am; edited 1 time in total
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pjdog
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:16 pm
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For those (me) with just a high school education I looked this up.

ubiquitous:

: existing or being everywhere at the same time : constantly encountered : widespread <a ubiquitous fashion>

Jack
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pjdog
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:17 pm
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ooops!

I forgot.

Welcome to the forum golfsoccer9!

jack
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:07 am
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pjdog wrote:
For those (me) with just a high school education I looked this up.

ubiquitous:

: existing or being everywhere at the same time : constantly encountered : widespread

Jack


Well, that explanation isn't quite correct; rather like doing the hovering with an Electrolux vacuum cleaner.

Ubiquitous adj.
1 (seemingly) present everywhere simultaneously.
2 often encountered. ubiquity n. [Latin ubique everywhere] (Compact Oxford English Dictionary sec. Ed. OUP 2002 ,p.1249)

Etymology
ubiquitous (adj.)
"turning up everywhere," 1837, from ubiquity + -ous. The earlier word was ubiquitary (1580s), from Modern Latin ubiquitarius, from ubique. Related: Ubiquitously; ubiquitousness.

Ubiquity: 1570s, from M.Fr. ubiquité (17c.), from L. ubique "everywhere," from ubi "where" (see ubi) + que "any, also, ever," a suffix that can give universal meaning to the word it is attached to. Originally a Lutheran theological position maintaining the omnipresence of Christ. Ubiquitousin the sense of "turning up everywhere" is first recorded 1837, originally a jocular extension of the theological word.

Burgess
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tombo242
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:20 am
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Golfsoccer9

Wish I could help with that heli - but it's one that I know nothing about and having looked up a few videos on it I can understand your confusion. I would like to know more about your basic setup and a more precise description of how the heli 'goes nuts'- That leaves a lot to the imagination, a good video would help. Please leave the normal sound it helps sometimes, a musical overlay can ruin it. At least it doesn't have a tail motor one good point in it's favour but I can't help feeling that I would dump the radio gear. However, a decent Tx & Rx would cost more than that heli so I guess that you are going to have to work with it. Don't let it put you off, keep right in there.

Tom.
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admiral
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 5:54 pm
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Hi Golfsoccer9,

Welcome to the forum,

For a start check your warranty, I have never had a RTF helicopter that has "gone crazy" straight out of the box, none have really been ready to fly, but the have all had a semblance of the servos etc working properly, and none have ever suggested programming the transmitter.

Talk to your supplier, we have no hope of helping you if the Transmitter or Helicopter are faulty to start with.
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golfsoccer9
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 7:20 am
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tombo242 wrote:
Golfsoccer9

Wish I could help with that heli - but it's one that I know nothing about and having looked up a few videos on it I can understand your confusion. I would like to know more about your basic setup and a more precise description of how the heli 'goes nuts'- That leaves a lot to the imagination, a good video would help. Please leave the normal sound it helps sometimes, a musical overlay can ruin it. At least it doesn't have a tail motor one good point in it's favour but I can't help feeling that I would dump the radio gear. However, a decent Tx & Rx would cost more than that heli so I guess that you are going to have to work with it. Don't let it put you off, keep right in there.

Tom.


Well I've been able to get rid of the problem of my helicopter going nuts when I power it up (I had the throttle up on the transmitter). My main problem is that my main rotors will no longer spin. The bearings that help spin the rotors spin, but the rotors will not spin. Any suggestions? I am working on getting a video up.
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 8:01 am
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From that description, sounds like you've disconnected the three leads from the ESC to the motor and reconnected them in a different order, just disconnect any two and swop them over.
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golfsoccer9
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 1:45 am
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Burgess wrote:
From that description, sounds like you've disconnected the three leads from the ESC to the motor and reconnected them in a different order, just disconnect any two and swop them over.


That did the trick!! My Heli seems to be working normally, but I run into another problem occasionally. My flight bar never seems to be horizontal, its always sloped downwards in an akward angle. Is this normal? In addition, I can't seem to get my swasher parallel to the ground. This ends up causing my flight bar and main rotor blades to collide if I bank of make a sharp turn. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks. Oh and I can't seem to put the canopy on, do I just have to drill a hole in it?
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:38 pm
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Canopy:
There should be two rubber grommets, either taped inside the canopy or in the box that the heli came in. Put the battery on the heli, place canopy on and mark the position of the mounting studs on the inside of the canopy, transfer onto the outside and drill holes to accommodate those grommets.

Rotor head:
Look and see if the flybar is straight, look from above and from the side. Measure the distance between the control cage and the paddles both side should be exactly the same, any discrepancy will cause an imbalance.
Check the tightness of the blade holder screws, the blades should move but not too freely.
Spread them out straight, then hold up the heli vertically by the tail and with a short jerk upwards, both blade-ends should drop to about 40 degrees. Adjust as required.

You will need to purchase a pitch gauge sooner or later, there not expensive, but for now, you can make your own, see my post ‘Need a pitch-gauge, try this' in the Tip and Tricks section of the forum.

Swash-plate problem:
From here things get a bit complex, so before changing anything mechanical, just study relevant section the manuals, and watch that ‘cheapest trex 450 clone helicopter build / setup #8' right through, the puppet on at the beginning of each video is just for fun and the guy doing those videos explains things in a real easy to follow fashion that will help you get to grips with programming the type of transmitter you have, and with the basic setting up procedures.

To check the swash-plate, you need to disconnect those three motor leads and index at least two of them for when reconnecting.
Download this manual:
http://www.ircha.org/sites/default/files/Digital%20Library/Align%20Trex%20450%20SEV2.pdf
The main rotor head is just like the one on Your helli and there's more useful technical info in this one than that Hausler 450SEV2 manual.

Now look at the diagrams of the main rotor head on pages 17 and 18.
As can be seen, every thing, flybar, seasaw, mixing arms and swashplate must be at 90 degrees to the main shaft.

Power up the transmitter, and make sure that
the throttle hold switch is on,
the flight mode switch is in normal and
the throttle stick is right down.
Connect the LiPO flight-pack and allow time for the gyro to arm, there will be no audible waring because the motor has been disconnected.

Switch...Throttle Hold to Off
Switch...Flight Mode to ID
Move the throttle stick right up and down, and the swashplate, while moving with it, should be at 90 degrees to the main shaft, look from the side and the front.

Now move the throttle-stick to the mid-stick position.
See page 20 in the t-rex 450 manual, at mid-stick the blades should horizontal, dead flat at zero degrees.
Centre the two cyclic trims for the right control stick gimbal. Keep the transmitter power on and go into the transmitter program and reset the sub-trims for aileron, elevator, and pitch, back to 0%.
Now check the position of the three servo arms, if any are not horizontal, they will need repositioning to horizontal.

With all three servo-arms at 90 degrees to the main shaft, the swash-plate should also be at 90 degrees, dead level looking from the side and from the front. Next check that the paddles are at zero degrees in elevator (pitch-axis) paddle out to the left, and in the aileron (roll-axis) paddle out to the front.
With the paddles in those same positions, move the throttle stick right through its travel while watching the paddle for any deflections away from being dead flat at zero degrees. Do the same in normal flight mode there should be literally no deflections at any point.

You will probably need to adjust the cyclic trims to correct any fore/aft and or left/right drift.

If at this point the swash-plate is not absolutely level, then you will need to use a swashplate levelling tool, however, the setting of the swashplate is critical and a bit more complex, so come back if that needs sorting out.

Burgess
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golfsoccer9
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:16 pm
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Burgess wrote:
Canopy:
There should be two rubber grommets, either taped inside the canopy or in the box that the heli came in. Put the battery on the heli, place canopy on and mark the position of the mounting studs on the inside of the canopy, transfer onto the outside and drill holes to accommodate those grommets.

Rotor head:
Look and see if the flybar is straight, look from above and from the side. Measure the distance between the control cage and the paddles both side should be exactly the same, any discrepancy will cause an imbalance.
Check the tightness of the blade holder screws, the blades should move but not too freely.
Spread them out straight, then hold up the heli vertically by the tail and with a short jerk upwards, both blade-ends should drop to about 40 degrees. Adjust as required.

You will need to purchase a pitch gauge sooner or later, there not expensive, but for now, you can make your own, see my post ‘Need a pitch-gauge, try this' in the Tip and Tricks section of the forum.

Swash-plate problem:
From here things get a bit complex, so before changing anything mechanical, just study relevant section the manuals, and watch that ‘cheapest trex 450 clone helicopter build / setup #8' right through, the puppet on at the beginning of each video is just for fun and the guy doing those videos explains things in a real easy to follow fashion that will help you get to grips with programming the type of transmitter you have, and with the basic setting up procedures.

To check the swash-plate, you need to disconnect those three motor leads and index at least two of them for when reconnecting.
Download this manual:
http://www.ircha.org/sites/default/files/Digital%20Library/Align%20Trex%20450%20SEV2.pdf
The main rotor head is just like the one on Your helli and there's more useful technical info in this one than that Hausler 450SEV2 manual.

Now look at the diagrams of the main rotor head on pages 17 and 18.
As can be seen, every thing, flybar, seasaw, mixing arms and swashplate must be at 90 degrees to the main shaft.

Power up the transmitter, and make sure that
the throttle hold switch is on,
the flight mode switch is in normal and
the throttle stick is right down.
Connect the LiPO flight-pack and allow time for the gyro to arm, there will be no audible waring because the motor has been disconnected.

Switch...Throttle Hold to Off
Switch...Flight Mode to ID
Move the throttle stick right up and down, and the swashplate, while moving with it, should be at 90 degrees to the main shaft, look from the side and the front.

Now move the throttle-stick to the mid-stick position.
See page 20 in the t-rex 450 manual, at mid-stick the blades should horizontal, dead flat at zero degrees.
Centre the two cyclic trims for the right control stick gimbal. Keep the transmitter power on and go into the transmitter program and reset the sub-trims for aileron, elevator, and pitch, back to 0%.
Now check the position of the three servo arms, if any are not horizontal, they will need repositioning to horizontal.

With all three servo-arms at 90 degrees to the main shaft, the swash-plate should also be at 90 degrees, dead level looking from the side and from the front. Next check that the paddles are at zero degrees in elevator (pitch-axis) paddle out to the left, and in the aileron (roll-axis) paddle out to the front.
With the paddles in those same positions, move the throttle stick right through its travel while watching the paddle for any deflections away from being dead flat at zero degrees. Do the same in normal flight mode there should be literally no deflections at any point.

You will probably need to adjust the cyclic trims to correct any fore/aft and or left/right drift.

If at this point the swash-plate is not absolutely level, then you will need to use a swashplate levelling tool, however, the setting of the swashplate is critical and a bit more complex, so come back if that needs sorting out.

Burgess


Thanks for all the input man, i'm sure it will help a lot! I'll give you an update as soon as I get the time to apply all of these tips to the heli! Oh and I forgot to mention one last thing. Whenever I power up my heli for take off, the heli will start to lean to one side and then tilt over and fall to the ground. Is this caused by the swasher plate not being level or because my servos aren't horizontal?
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tombo242
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:25 am
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golfsoccer9 wrote:
Whenever I power up my heli for take off, the heli will start to lean to one side and then tilt over and fall to the ground. Is this caused by the swasher plate not being level or because my servos aren't horizontal?


Excellent write up by Burgess there.

Re: Tipping over: A lot depends on the surface, all single rotor helis slide left at lift off. It takes a lot of training to apply just enough correction to cancel this slide. It is caused by the thrust of the tail rotor cancelling the torque of the main rotor and pushing the heli left at the same time.

If you are trying to take off from a 'grippy' surface e.g. grass, then the skids cannot slide and the heli tips. The easy way to get up is to give it a quick 'jump' to about waist high when the left drift tends to stop as the heli is both out of ground effect and free to lean slightly to the right.

The swash being out of horizontal will give a push in the direction of the tilt. As Burgess says you will need a swash leveller and a pitch gauge to set up the head properly.

Tom.
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golfsoccer9
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 2:40 am
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tombo242 wrote:
golfsoccer9 wrote:
Whenever I power up my heli for take off, the heli will start to lean to one side and then tilt over and fall to the ground. Is this caused by the swasher plate not being level or because my servos aren't horizontal?


Excellent write up by Burgess there.

Re: Tipping over: A lot depends on the surface, all single rotor helis slide left at lift off. It takes a lot of training to apply just enough correction to cancel this slide. It is caused by the thrust of the tail rotor cancelling the torque of the main rotor and pushing the heli left at the same time.

If you are trying to take off from a 'grippy' surface e.g. grass, then the skids cannot slide and the heli tips. The easy way to get up is to give it a quick 'jump' to about waist high when the left drift tends to stop as the heli is both out of ground effect and free to lean slightly to the right.

The swash being out of horizontal will give a push in the direction of the tilt. As Burgess says you will need a swash leveller and a pitch gauge to set up the head properly.

Tom.


Thanks for the info man!
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tombo242
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:13 am
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golfsoccer9 wrote:
Thanks for the info man!


Your very welcome golfsoccer, that's what this forum is all about. If we can help we do and no question is stupid if you need the answer.

Tom.
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