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setting up a T-34 Series RC Helicopter


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SkyHigh
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:26 am
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Yes Burgess Summer is finally here, about time, long awaited but much appreciated. Diddle said after full charge the battery reads 8.4 v. He has only had this a week so motors will also be fine. Slipping gears will prevent take off Diddle takes off but cannot control. Blades angle of a attack, these are fixed pitch, If diddle follows the setup instruction he will fly.

Sorry to sound negative on your suggestions
But I really do know the T-34
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:38 pm
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Well, Diddle has said that he's tightened the those screws clamping the gears onto the shafts and that nothing is slipping, after all he's got the heli in front of him, so I'm inclined to accept his report.

I have a Salvation2 coaxal heli and I replaced the stock blades with Xtreme blades and they made a huge difference, due to their stiffness and foil section. The stock blades flexed under dynamic load.

Similarly the old stile rotor blades for the Walkera 36 are a solid construction with a carbon fibre membrane all the way through their cord centre line and they flexed under dynamic load, result poor lift. Replacing them with a set of Walkera high performance glass-fibre blades -hollow section with spar construction- made a huge difference because they are rigid.

I also have a set of Align 315 Fiber high performance blades, on one of my T-rex 450 clones, they're construction, moulded fiber reenforced plastic with a foil sticker on the under side to form a skin, however, they are flexible span-wise and twist very easily cord-wise. They are not as efficient as the carbon fibre blades that I use also hollow section spar constriction and cord-wise they are very taught.

I found these videos on youtube:

T-34 Bendy Blades Modification
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY2zfrQOvTg


T-34 RC HELICOPTER STOCK BATTERY Vs KINGMAX BATTERY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqR35So-erQ

T-34 problems solved.wmv
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=lY5s4Adm8Ss&NR=1

From these, it would seem modify the blades and fit Kingmax battery, ought to get you airborne.

Burgess
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Diddle
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:42 pm
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Well it certainly hasnt got damaged blades because its never been more than 12inches off the ground to go anywhere.
Nothing is slipping on any shaftes or gears.
Battery is fully charged and reading over 8v.

I think when I get my new 6ch heli the T34 can go on ebay.
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SkyHigh
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 5:01 am
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Burgess nice video links. Like the Bendy Blades Mod. Dear Diddle damaged blades accrue less than 12 inches off the ground. Burgess is inclined to accept your report. Sorry I don’t. Have you changed the batteries in your transmitter? Are both blades spinning at the same speed, I think this is a battery issue T-34 Battery or transmitter.
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Diddle
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:24 pm
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I have been doing some googling and different retailers of the 34 list that its either fitted with a 1000mah battery, or a 1500. Mine has got a 1350.
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:36 pm
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Diddle, with a 1350mAh battery (NiMH) your all new heli ought to get airborne, and with everything mechanically sound, and with the battery fully charged to 8.4 volts, that would indicate the discharge rate of the cells you have is not high enough for T-34 motors power requirements. Why not consider trying a LiPO 1000mAh 2S 7.4v pack, much better discharge rate, they're not expensive from Hobbyking.com and if your in the UK, delivery is quite fast.

Also, in view of immanent arrival of your 6 channel heli, you will need a good charge, the Imax B6 represents value for money and it will charge all batteries you're ever likely to use in RC.


Burgess
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Diddle
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:44 pm
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Have fitted a new battery but can't try it out properly because theres a slight puff of wind outside and it gets blown away.

Monday.
Today not much wind.

Heli gets off ground but doesnt want to go forward.
Moved battery back a bit and it doesnt want to take off.
5 mins attempting to control it and no power left in battery to get if off the ground.

Load of junk.

I have a a Syma S310 which is far better and only cost me half what the T34 did. I mean get real. Whatever good is a heli that you can only fly when there is no wind at all.
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SkyHigh
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:10 am
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Diddle you are a dump ass, your description to a problem is pathetic, you have no concept of what you are talking about, fitting new battery puff of wind, how descriptive is that, Monday not much wind, heli gets off the ground, it does not want to go forward so let’s restrict even more by moving the battery backwards, you spend five minutes draining the battery , and then astonished that it failed to take off, like I said before the helicopter is not at fault, was going to say pilot, but just say dumb ass is at fault, your Syma S310 sounds far superior, NOT. Your ending your statement “Whatever good is a heli that you can only fly when there is no wind at all” YOU CANT FLY WITH OR WITHOUT WIND, AHHHHHHHHHHHH.
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Diddle
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 4:00 pm
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OK Mr Knowall,
If I can fly the Syma,(and others) why doesnt he T34 fly?
Its crap.
If it was any good you wouldnt have to make all the mods to get it to fly properly.

I did make a mistake in saying I moved the battery back, whereas I meant (to write) "back to where it was",

It struggles to get off the ground with a fully charged battery and then it doesnt want to fly forward. I move the battery slightly forward and it goes forward onto its nose on take off. Theres no inbetween.
Back to the original battery fully charged, its hovers and gets blown away by the slightest wind... like wind not strong enough to blow a cigarette lighter out.

5 mins "draining" the battery.....
If its drained in 5 mins it not much bloody good then is it.
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:02 pm
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Diddle
Yes, products should do what the manufactures clam, the technology is no-longer new, but tried and tested. Radio Control flying can be very frustrating when something does not function as one might hope, however, there is usually a logical reason for electro-mechanical malfunctions. Nevertheless, if a product does not function as the manufactures claim, then it's not really fit for purpose.

Having said that, where the design concept works well with small IR coaxial helicopters, it does not apparently translate well to larger sized helicopters, and the need for modifications would seem to be standard practice. Look at T-R-E-Vs posts earlier in this thread, he's modified his basic T-34 very successfully. The modifications are not too complex or expensive, getting something to fly successfully is all part of aero-modelling and that's -well for some of us- is the interesting aspect 21st century RC flying when we no-longer need to scratch build models.


Not many of us would get a ready to fly 6-channel heli and fly it straight out of the box, without a complete strip-down, rebuild, and set-up.


Burgess
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Tymiano
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:05 am
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Hi. I just bought t34 helicopter. It was second hand and unfortunatelly it doesn't work. Well kind of. Helicopters turns on, radio turns on but it seems they don't communicate to eachother. I press exit/light button on this thing and it does nothing.

Another question is - in the manual it says there is a red led in the rear which should be flashing quickly and become solid after setting helicopter on the ground but for some reason can't find where it should be. Only red led which is flashing very quicky is that on receiver - is it the one manulal talks about?
I have suspucion that i might have radio on different baseband (27mhz) than receiver and there is no way i can check which one is fitted on the copter.
Are there any simple steps to check whats wrong?
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SkyHigh
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 1:24 pm
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The reason your helicopter does not communicate with the transmitter, is probably the way you are doing things, first turn on the transmitter then plug in your helicopter battery, move the left stick up then down you should here a beep, the lights will stop flashing, now when you press exit/light button your side lights will flash.
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Tymiano
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 3:16 pm
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That is exactly how i was doing things. Followed manual that came with but that does not work. There is bip coming from transmitter after left stick up/down, bip from exit/lights button. Helicopter is flat on the ground and dont respond to anything.
I don't know if that supposed to be like that when I switch copter on lights starts flashing right away and don't stop. Maybe something is wrong with wiring but dont know how it should be from original.
And still didn't figured out which led on the copter should change to solid. If am right there is something that looks like a led which is on the very beginning (ending opposite to rottor) of tail just before the first screw and blue led that does not flash at all so am thinking that might be the one?
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SkyHigh
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 8:10 pm
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Yes flashing lights when you plug in the helicopter is normal, the reason you cannot switch the lights off via the exit/light button because it is not bound to the transmitter, it is the receiver light that should go solid red when bound, the flashing lights down the side of the tail boom are just for decoration. If these do not flash then you may have the side light plugged into the first slot under the canopy this slot if for the front canopy light. The only reason I can think it is not binding the transmitter battery’s need charging, or the areal is not fully extended or the transmitter wire is split and touching the frame.

Last edited by SkyHigh on Sat Sep 21, 2013 12:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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Burgess
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 8:18 pm
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Hello Tymiano, and welcome to the forum.

When you bought the heli, where you made aware of the fault? If not take it back.

However, if you did know and want to repair it then, it sounds like a no transmission/reception problem, look at the receiver board and check the areal connection is attached. Do likewise with the transmitter. May just be a dry joint that needs to be re-soldered.

I think that the transmitter and receiver don't have changeable crystals, so there ought to be some notation of the exact frequency within the 27mhz band on the transmitter board and on the receiver board.

Burgess
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