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setting up a T-34 Series RC Helicopter


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tusker
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:29 pm
PostPost subject: setting up a T-34 Series RC Helicopter
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Hi, First Post!

I have just acquired a T-34 Series RC Helicopter from Amazon, having seen and been impressed with the favourable reviews and video clips of one flying. The issue I have is that even with the remote set up to give 100% gain to forward flight, and flying with the stick fully forward, it just about makes a little headway in still air and in the gentlest of breezes it only flies backwards! I imagine adding a little nose weight will help, but I guess weight and flying time are inversely related to each other. Any ideas from more experienced members about anything else I could adjust so that with all the controls set at neutral the hover is level and stationary in still air? I have noticed that increasing the lift power from a static hover at about 9 feet does help while the extra power is on, but this can only be done for a few seconds before the altitiude is excessive and the lift has to be reduced once more.

Many thanks for any advice.
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tombo242
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:22 pm
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Hi Tusker,

Foward only on your 3 channel T34 will be caused by one (or both) of two things.

1. Check this first. CG not in line with the mast. (Mast = Main drive shafts.)
Set flybar at 90ļ to the fuselage. Hang heli by flybar. The mast SHOULD be vertical. If not adjust battery position backwards/forwards to balance it.)

2. Tail rotor blades should NOT turn in hover with the T-34 if the CG is correct. The speed and direction of the tail motor controls the backwards (pushes tail down) and forwards (lifts tail up) flight.
Check with your controller that the tail blades stop at center stick and rotate in different directions as you move the stick for backwards/forwards flight.

Tom.
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tusker
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:12 pm
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Hi Tom,

Thanks for the prompt advice. Moving the battery forward by 6-7 mm has improved matters a lot so a 'hands free' hover (when the tail rotor is stationary) is much more stable. I still have the forward gain on the remote set at 100% from the factory setting of 50%, but I suspect the whole set up of this type of machine is towards stability rather than out and out manoeuvrability, so its forward speed and its ability to work in anything other than very calm conditions will never be that great.

The problem now is that I have to hold the nose cone on with tape as the battery in its new position prevents the lugs from engaging!

Regards Tusker
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tombo242
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:18 pm
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Hi Tusker,

That doesn't sound right to me. Is that the standard battery? It should not have to be so far forward that you cannot fit the canopy. Shocked

Idea Alternatively, is there any way to reduce the weight on the tail? Is it possible, for instance, to remove the horizontal stab. As far as I can see it does nothing other than look decorative! You could also remove the vertical stab, as this machine is not going to fly in any sort of wind at all. If you still want the looks then they could be replaced with lighter material. Anything that you can do to bring the CG forward will help a lot. Wink

Tom.
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T-R-E-V
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 5:37 am
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Hi Tusker,

The T-34 does tend to drift backwards, moving the battery forward as you did will give better forward motion, the tail rotor lift the rear of the helicopter giving forward motion, if you increase the size of the rotor this will dramatically increasing forward speed, adding a second tail motor will enable you to fly in wind conditions between 5 and 10mph.

Fast Forward Flight Using the T-34 RC Helicopter


Link


Trev.
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admiral
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 6:03 pm
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Hi T-R-E-V

A++ for the Mods you have really made that helicopter flyable, but you know your going to drive Thombo crazy, two tail motors on one helicopter.

But I 'm sure even Thombo will applaude your ingenuity, well done.
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tombo242
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:02 pm
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admiral wrote:
Hi T-R-E-V

A++ for the Mods you have really made that helicopter flyable, but you know your going to drive Thombo crazy, two tail motors on one helicopter.

But I 'm sure even Thombo will applaude your ingenuity, well done.


T-R-E-V is one of the few members that I have met in real life. Photo to prove it - I'm the taller, browner one.



Long time ago now Trev, still remember it though. You were always quite ingenious with the co-axials. Sometimes we learned from each other.

Tom.
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T-R-E-V
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:11 pm
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Thanks for that Tom,

Not only very knowledgeable with helicopters also knowledgeable the local land. Kindly gave me my wife and friends a guided tour, that will stay with me forever.

I am working on a single blade T-34 still very much in experimental stages.



Trev.
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Last edited by T-R-E-V on Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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T-R-E-V
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:20 pm
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Hi Admiral,

Thank you very much for your kind words of encouragement, and think I may of got off lightly with Tom LOL,

But do appreciate your comments very much.

Trev.
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tusker
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:05 am
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Thanks for the help guys. The battery set up on my copter is as you see it in the photo in the post above, so placing it any further forward is going to prevent the retaining lugs from engaging with the holes in the nose cone - but sticky tape is working for now, and I might drill new holes once I'm certain this is the best way forward.

The tail rotor mods look to have really sorted the flying characteristics - once I have gained some more experience, doing something like this to mine should mean being able to fly in less than flat calm conditions! Perhaps it would be possible for someone to describe how a simple tail rotor enhancement can be achieved with off the shelf parts, once you have completed your trials.

Thanks again.

Tusker
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T-R-E-V
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 3:41 pm
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Hi Tusker,

Normally moving the battery forward works,

I would suggest experimenting with different battery positions, without the canopy to find what best suites, such as mounting underneath the battery tray,

But if its forward speed you are after you will need to add a bigger tail rotor.

Trev.
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Hawzzy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:55 pm
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Another thing ive found with three channel helis...like Tombo said...remove some of the extra parts from the rear...the vertical tail stabilizer and more importantly...the horizontal stab....which, catches moving air from the rotor wash and pushes the rear of the heli down...causing either slower ff. On most of mine i remove the diagonal braces too...but if its hovering and fff you want you need a bigger tail rotor and or motor combination...
Tye

FF flight is effected by the "pitch" of the heli...more forward weight and/or bigger rear rotor/motor...experiement to see which serves your final goal best.
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tusker
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:48 pm
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Thanks for all the help guys. I set aside some time this weekend to experiment a bit with your recommendations and thought I would have a couple of trial flights to set a baseline for its current performance. To my surprise maximum lift only just the machine in the air, and it didn't sound right. A quick look with the canopy off soon identified the problem - the large nylon gear taking power to the lower rotor has started to strip its teeth! Given that I have been flying very carefully, with no major crashes, and a total flying time of around an hour, this is very disappointing. There are 2 large nylon gear wheels, and the one that is stripping does not appear to be as secure as the one taking power to the upper rotor, so I suspect the stripping is down to the gears only just meshing, with all the power acting on the tips of the teeth. I'm not a great fan of metal teeth and nylon teeth in the same gear train. Whatever the cause, it's on its way back to Amazon on Monday. I need to decide now whether to accept a replacement, or go for something that is more reliable and is capable of flying in a breeze and not just a flat calm Ė something which severely restricts flying time in the Chilterns!

Better luck next time.

tusker
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T-R-E-V
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 6:17 pm
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The striped nylon gear was probably coursed by loose motor screw; the brass gear moved away from the nylon gear and stripped the teeth. This can happen on any helicopter, and is not generic with the T-34, The only way you are going to get a coaxial helicopter to fly in any kind of wind is with modifications, as I suggested with the T-34 Helicopter now not only flyís well in winds also very fast forward flight.


Link


Trev.
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tusker
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 6:46 pm
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Thanks for the further post T-R-E-V. I have not had anything like the sort of crash yours has in the video, so I imagine my problem is because mine wasn't very well screwed together in the factory. The motor is secure, its the large plastic gear wheel that has some movement, but as the bearing in deep inside the machine I can't see why it's a bit loose, and I don't want to undo anything in case I end up in a warranty fight - which I am half expecting anyway!

On the basis of what you can do with your machine, I think I will ask for a replacement - as a beginner, I think I'll need many practice flights on a coaxial before I'm ready for something less docile. I appreciate you have added an extra 'thrust' rotor, which isn't something I want to try just now even though it has transformed your T-34 into a really imressive flyer, but I would be interested to know where you sourced your replacement tail rotor, and whether there were any issues you had to overcome when fitting it.

tusker
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