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swash plate leveling


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NOMFTOTF
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Joined: 06 Jun 2012
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Location: california

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:23 am
PostPost subject: swash plate leveling
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i just got me a new 450x and i was wondering can someone explain how to level the swashplate how and what position do i set the servos at before i make any adjustments

because im getting a nasty vibration on spinup and there is a minor vibration i can see in the skids as its flying
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chopper54
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 2:59 am
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Have you balanced the blades. Unbalanced blades will cause vibration.
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pjdog
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Location: Hudson, Florida, USA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:21 am
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If it turns balance it.

Get a swach plate balancer from XHELI.com

Good luck and have fun.

jack
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tombo242
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Joined: 04 Nov 2008
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Location: Santo Estvo, East Algarve, Portugal. 78, but still feels 18.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:20 am
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+1 on that Jack, a leveller and a pitch gauge are essential items.

Balance is essential if anything rotates.

Re: The servos and swash. (This is brief, ask for details if required in a PM)

First set the horns at to 90 to the links at mid-stick, swash should be at mid-travel and levelled by adjusting the links.

Now go to high-stick and level the swash with the 'travel adjust'.

Repeat at low-stick.

Now fit the head and blades. Use the pitch gauge for the next part.

Check your pitch at high-stick; you should have around +10 for beginner and +12 for 3D. Adjust as required with the swash mix 'pitch'.

Now at mid-stick, check the cyclic:

Blades parallel to fuse the ailerons should give you +-5 beginner and +-7 3D. Use Mix 1 aileron to aileron to set this.

Blades at 90 to fuse the elevator should give the same deflections. Use Mix 2 elevator to elevator to set this.

That more or less briefly covers the head.

Tom.
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NOMFTOTF
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:20 am
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OK ILL GIVE IT A SHOT
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NOMFTOTF
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 10:20 am
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Ok ive done some testing and with only the shaft sticking through the bearing everything runs true put the swash plate on end it still runs true
and dose all the way untill i put the head piece on then you can see the button on top running out i dont think its bent do you >>>>??? more likely its a bad head piece dont you think ?????
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matelot
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:20 pm
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Are you sure that the bearings are still good without any slop? And did you roll the shaft/mast along a true flat surface? That'll tell you if it has the minutest deviation from straight.

Just a thought.

Cheers
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tombo242
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Location: Santo Estvo, East Algarve, Portugal. 78, but still feels 18.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:05 pm
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NOMFTOTF wrote:
Ok I've done some testing and . . . . everything runs true . . . . until I put the head piece on then you can see the button on top running out


While I've never know a 'Stopper' to not run true, it is possible but I think more likely is a poor head block. That relies on drilling the mainshaft hole and 'Stopper' thread absolutely true to the block. Does the thread that you screw the 'Stopper' into run true?

Also Matelots' suggestion of checking the mainshaft for true is well worth following up. Should be done after every blade strike, both main and feathering shafts.

Keep in touch here.

Tom.
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NOMFTOTF
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 3:10 am
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the main shaft was new never been flown and like i said i tried it adding one piece at a time and didnt see any wobble untill i put the dead piece and even then i only toticed it in watching the button on top
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tombo242
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Location: Santo Estvo, East Algarve, Portugal. 78, but still feels 18.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 7:12 am
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It would seem like that is the faulty part then.

Tom.
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