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Blade 130X


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Dumb Thumbs
Extreme 3D
Extreme 3D


Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 892
Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 12:31 am
PostPost subject: Blade 130X
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I picked up the 130X that I've been waiting for from the LHS last week and have got a few flights on it, nothing too daring yet, spare parts are still a litle scarce so I'm being cautious for now. I'm flying it on a DX8 but a 6i would wook just as well.
The 130X is more then a big brother to the MCPX, it's a totally different animal. Things I like about it is direct shaft drive tail, plenty of power, very stable (for it's size) and not as loose feeling as the MCPX.
It is up there in price but it's a lotta bang for the buck.
One down side thing is the motor (brushless inrunner) gets very hot so cool down time between flights is running about 1/4 hour.
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laneritc
Extreme 3D
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Joined: 08 Mar 2011
Posts: 100
Location: georgia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:47 am
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looked at one today at the hobby shop, (had to get some orange blades for the MQX can't see the black ones) very nice heli, well built. Lane
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nick_onelove
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Joined: 01 May 2011
Posts: 842
Location: Mendocino County, CA, United States 21 years old

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:20 am
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Apparently I had one of these on pre-order because it showed up at my old apartment last week. (I've moved into a new place with my girlfriend. Shocked )

Anyway I LOVE this little thing: it's everything the mCP X should have been. With its shaft-driven variable-pitch tail, it's literally like flying a miniaturized 450. Flips and rolls are much more confident because you're not constantly worrying about tail blowout.

The cyclic is ultra-responsive like the mCP X, but its slightly larger size stabilizes it a little. (I often hear the mCP X described as too "fast" because of its incredibly sensitive cyclic response paired with its tiny size.)

The brushless in-runner is more than powerful enough for the job and provides for some pretty violent pitch pumps if you really throw the stick back-and-forth. It does get pretty hot though.

I haven't crashed it yet but I'm sure it's only a matter of time; it should be just as durable as the mCP X except for the tail drive gear which I suspect will strip fairly easily. But as far as I'm concerned that's a small price to pay for complete rudder authority.
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Extreme 3D
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:51 am
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nick_onelove wrote:
The brushless in-runner is more than powerful enough for the job and provides for some pretty violent pitch pumps if you really throw the stick back-and-forth. It does get pretty hot though.

I haven't crashed it yet but I'm sure it's only a matter of time; it should be just as durable as the mCP X except for the tail drive gear which I suspect will strip fairly easily. But as far as I'm concerned that's a small price to pay for complete rudder authority.


I've got temps of over 140*F, even up to 160* on one really HOT day. I've read on another forum that guys say that a heat sink from a Blade SR tail motor fits the 130X motor with a little grinding down. I have a heat sink on the way, as well as a upgrade metal crown gear (doesn't take much to strip the stock plastic one from what I've learned first hand).
I'll post how these upgrades work, or don't.
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nick_onelove
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Joined: 01 May 2011
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Location: Mendocino County, CA, United States 21 years old

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:51 am
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Dumb Thumbs wrote:

I'll post how these upgrades work, or don't.


Sounds good. Is the heatsink you ordered for the SR or is it custom for the 130X? And if so; link?


Last edited by nick_onelove on Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:58 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Extreme 3D
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:56 pm
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It's the stock heat sink for the SR, but the size is right for the 130X motor.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/direct-drive-n60-tail-motor-heat-sink-bcpp2-bsr-EFLH1319
To get the most out of a heat sink you'll also want to use s dab of heat sink compound between the sink and motor. I'm sure Horizon has it also.
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NOMFTOTF
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Joined: 06 Jun 2012
Posts: 55
Location: california

PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:16 am
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The heat sink compound your talking about is the same dielectric grease that is put between your heat sink on your cpu of your pc you can get that at any radio shack
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Extreme 3D
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 7:58 am
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Crying or Very sad Well after takeing the 130 apart to install the new tail drive gear I found that the frame is broken where the motor mounts to it. As I had feared, no spare frames in stock at the LHS, so it's grounded till ti comes in. I just hope it isn't on back order.
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nick_onelove
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Joined: 01 May 2011
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Location: Mendocino County, CA, United States 21 years old

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:53 pm
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Did you have a crash or did the frame break when you were taking it apart?!

Did the plastic crown gear strip or were you upgrading it pre-emptively?

That sucks about the spares, I'll have to be more careful. I havent had a crash yet but it seems like it's always just a matter of time with micro 3D helis... Laughing
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laneritc
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Joined: 08 Mar 2011
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Location: georgia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:00 pm
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Don't know if this helps or what http://www.wowhobbies.com/blh3703maingearforefliteblade130x-1.aspx
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Extreme 3D
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:36 pm
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I had a hard landing in grass, not really what I'd call a crash. Tail rotor caught the grass and broke a few teeth off the tail drive gear. I figured as long as I had to replace it, might as well get the metal upgrade. I'd much rather have to replace the gears in the tail box then have to split the frame to get to the gear on the main shaft.
I've ground down the new metal gear a tiny bit to get a little more clearance between it and the back of of the elevator servo. Both the stock gear and the metal gear looked scary close to rubbing on the servo. The way I went around it was to lightly chuck it up in a drill press running at slow RPMs and held a metal file to it. A hand held drill would also work. Only took off a fraction of a MM, but can always take off more if needed. It's made out of some tough metal so I don't think taking the diameter a hair hurts anything.
I didn't notice anything broken on the frame when I took it apart. Only when I was putting it back together did I find the broken motor mounts. Maybe it was cracked by the sudden jolt to gears.
Ive got a new frame on order at the LHS and just in case I also ordered one on line. You know the "Old Rule", you'll never break a part on a heli if you have a spare ready to go in. It's always the parts you don't have that seem to break. The Helt Gods way of having fun with us!
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NOMFTOTF
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Joined: 06 Jun 2012
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Location: california

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:51 am
PostPost subject: 130 x
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I just bought a 130 x a couple weeks ago and the only problem i have had is with the tail servo for some reason stops working in flight then as soon as its on the ground it come back have any of you had this problem ????
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Dumb Thumbs
Extreme 3D
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:24 am
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Haven't had that on my 130X, but did have an elev, or was it aileron problem on another micro heli. Turned out to only be a tiny bit of dirt or sand in the servo gear.
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Extreme 3D
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Location: USA, N.J., Middlesex county

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:32 am
PostPost subject: 130X repair vids.
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I found some great "How to repair the 130X" vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=My_OxHGw9WE&feature=relmfu
Covers gear replacement & head repair...
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NOMFTOTF
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Joined: 06 Jun 2012
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Location: california

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:44 am
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awsome thanks dumb thumbs
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