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Extreme 3D
Extreme 3D

Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 1100
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 6:19 pm
PostPost subject: Flysky FS-CT6B radio set
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Flysky FS-CT6B radio set

The Flysky FS-CT6B radio set arrived last Wednesday, I've now had time to go through various aspects of the transmitter and programming. The first thing which became apparent very quickly is need for position marks for both VR(A) Pitch, and VR(B) Gyro Gain rotary knobs; for setting-up and for when energizing the airborne system in Normal flight Mode.

Indexing the controls:
Set the collective stick dead centre and with a cocktail stick or fine brush, dab spots of water based white paint on the outer stator and gimbal barrel to indicate stick positions central, top, and bottom.

Again place a dab of white paint on the case at the 12 O'clock position above each VR pot knob. Rap a 10mm wide length of masking tape around each VR knob.
Rotate each knob in either direction and index the limit of rotation, find the mid-position and draw a black line on the side of the knob.
-See photos, useful for when setting up and spooling-up

Toggle SW(B) forward into (ID), position the Collective stick at the mid-stick position, and the Trim Tab at the bottom position.
Rotate VR(A) till the main blade pitch angle is zero degrees and draw a line on the knob.

Toggle SW(B) backwards, position Collective at bottom stick position.
Trim Tab position, of which there are two options:

i) Set the Trim Tab central position, with VR(A) at the mid point, the pitch angle should be at zero degrees; however, with the Trim Tab at the central position, even with the Collective at bottom stick position the throttle is still open.

ii) Set the Trim-Tab bottom position with VR(A) at the mid point, the pitch angle should be at zero degrees.

I prefer the second option, simply because negative pitch can be achieved by:
a) set a negative value for position 0 of the Normal Pitch Curve; or
b) Using ID Flight Mode;

Do the following after programming the transmitter and setting up the helicopter.
c) Setting the knob to where a the main blades have a measured 2-3 degrees negative pitch angle, and mark that position on the knob.

Rotate the knob to the point where the gyro LED goes out -mid point between Head Hold and Rates mode, and draw an index line the knob.

Think of the distance from that mid-point in either direction as 100% each side, rather than 100% for the whole rotation of knob VR(B).
From the mid point turn towards the HH direction LED on about 80% and index the knob; turn from mid point towards the Rates direction LED off about 60% and index the knob again.

After the tail rotor neutral point has been set in Rates Mode by adjusting the rudder servo assembly position on the boom, and the fastest stable response found in Head-Hold, the VR(B) Gyro Gain knob can be set and left at that HH position throughout the learning to fly period.

Check Transmitter Calibration:
Hook-up to the computer and run T6CONFIG and establish transmitter to computer communication.
**********************************EDIT 11/06/15**********************
Trim Tabs centred
Sub Trims at 0%
End Points at 100%/%100
Dual Rates at 100%/%100
Swash Afr at 100%; 100%; 100%;
ID Pitch Curve at 00%; 25%; 50%; 75%; 100%

Apologies gents: regarding the designation "Swash Afr", which stands for Adjust function rate, perhaps labelled ‘Swash Mix' would be more intuitive.

CH6 controls the maximum extent of Collective Pitch, so

Swash Afr settings to CH1 50%; CH2 50%; CH6 50%


Centre the Collective stick and now check the green-meter graphics for Channels 1, 2, & 6,
Ideally only the centre line should be seen.
Reduce any black bar till only the centre line shows, either by using the Trim-Tabs adjacent to sticks, or digital Sub-Trims.
This will reveal the state of calibration accuracy.

Take note of the number of Trim-Tab clicks or Sub-Trim percentages needed to zero each channel to its centre line, and then centre Trim Tabs centred and 0% Sub Trims.

After levelling the Swash at the mid, top, and bottom positions, if there are any adverse interactions, -gaps appearing between levelling tool legs and swash arms as the collective stick is moved up and down- the problem may well be down to any calibration errors.

However, it may be due to how sensitive/responsive the servo are to transmitter control inputs. Test the servo connect to any of the flight control channels and test for how many sub trim percentages are required to initiate a response in the servo do similar in the opposite direction.

Either way, index that position of the Trim tabs, paint dots again, or a narrow strip of white self adhesive label on the rim of the inboard side of the tab slot and mark with pencil/pen. -see photo above.
All too easy for these Trim-tabs to get knocked out of position.


Last edited by Burgess on Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Extreme 3D
Extreme 3D

Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 1100
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 8:41 pm
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Program the transmitter ready for doing the basic mechanical setting up of the helicopter.
Remember changes take effect as soon as one clicks on the OK buttons.

Connect the USB cable to the transmitter and the USB port
Run T6config program, in the System Option box click SETTING, and chose your com port click OK, click on GetUser, click on Open, in the dialogue box give the file a name and then save the file.

Do a Save Click after each change to settings, just safeguards loss of programming.

Flight Mode 2 is the most common mode used by many RC helicopter pilots. So maybe wise to use this mode in case one enlists the help of another pilot.

Click on STICK and choose model2 -this equates to Mode 2- click OK.

Click on TYPE choose HELI-120, click on OK, this setting refers to the swashplate link-ball 120 degrees of separation.
Note: in Heli-90 the cyclic servos only respond to the channel their connected to, so can be used to verify connections.

Click on SWASH AFR..set CH1,CH2,CH6 all to 100% click OK. This refers to swashplate movement control increase or decrease for each of these channels.
CH1, pitch for the Role Axis,
CH2, pitch for the Pitch Axis,
CH6, Collective Pitch.

Note #1: After completing basic setup with all three at set at 100%, then these settings can be changed. Check the flybar control frame doesn't contact the blade holders at maximum cyclic deflections.

Note #2: For reasons of there being no expo (exponential -rate of reaction to control inputs) for CH1 and CH2, by reducing the percentage will tame down the swashplate response to cyclic stick control inputs. For learning to hover and basic flight, reduce CH1 and CH2 down to 50% to 35%.

Click on ENDPOINTS..set all to 100/100

Click on SUBTRIM....set all to 00%

Click on DR.........set CH1,CH2 to DR ON 100% DR OFF 50%;
set CH6 to DR ON 100% DR OFF 100%

Click on THRO CURV..Set both to 00%; 25%; 50%; 75%; 100% (to be reset after basic mechanical setting up is complete).

Click on PITH CURV..Set ID to 00%; 25%; 50%; 75%; 100% (to be reset in conjunction with NOR curve after basic mechanical setting up is complete).

Click on REVERSE....check CH1 to NOR, if the rudder servo is
mounted on the port side, check CH4 to NOR.

Cyclic Servo Positions
Aileron CH1 in the lower right position,
Elevator CH2 in the rear,
Pitch CH6 in the upper left,

See diagram

Click on MIX...
This also includes Mapping of the two switches and the variable resistor pots VR(A) and VR(B) to bring them in-to or out-of the control circuits.

The Gyro Gain channel 5 is Mapped through pot VR(B) and made active.
Rudder channel 4 is mixed with itself and made active.
Throttle channel 3 is mixed with itself but not made active.

Mix 1
Source VR B
Des CH5
Up 100
Down 100
Switch ON

Mix 2
Des CH4
Up 100
Down 100
Switch ON

Mix. 3
Des 3
Up 100
Down 100
Switch OFF

Finding and indexing the sweat spot for Rates and for Head Hold, may-well prove critical for spooling up in either mode.

Some advocate mapping gyro control through VR(B) and SW(B), however, mixing, flight mode and gyro control will only confuse matters when first getting to grips with setting up the transmitter and helicopter.

Do a click and save it as your default settings.

Next Basic Mechanical set up:

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Extreme 3D
Extreme 3D

Joined: 08 Apr 2015
Posts: 86
Location: Leland, NC. USA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 12:36 am
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This is excellent!!!
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Extreme 3D
Extreme 3D

Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 1100
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 12:23 am
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I've be precluded from completing the next part of this review due to Life, the universe, shopping and a problem with the HK-450MT bare- bones kit. The upper frame has an inherent problem, the aperture for the rear servo is too far forward and this effects the geometry of the Cyclic (elevator) servo arm to Swash-plate geometry and this tilts the swash-plate up at the rear. So, in order to give a fair review of the Flysky FS-CT6B I've ordered a set of Hobbyking upper and lower CF frame sides (Clone Trex45EV2).

Basic Mechanical set up:

Prior to installing any electronic devices, to prevent problems from electronic interference, recommendation, fit a Ferrite Ring onto the leads of the ESC, Gyro, and Rudder servo. If using Futaba connecters you will first need to remove the plastic plug from the lead.

Loop the lead around the ring four times, on the last rap feed the lead under the last loop, this will help keep the raps tight on the ring. For the Gyro, probably best to fit the ring after routing the lead through the frame.

Usually, the connection between ESC and motor is achieved using 3.5mm gold plated banana bullet connecters. These can create a resistance due to the actual connection is via the thin strips of the ‘spring' in contact with the female connector. The level of resistance really depends on the power requirement the particular motor used. There are now alternative connectors available which have greater surface contact.

The Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2215H Motor, 3550kv (450 heli class) has a Max current ratting of 20~28A
(11.1v x 20~28A)= 222~310 watts...ample power for learning to fly.

One option is to make permanent soldered connections between ESC and motor, and this will eliminate most all resistance problems; however, being able to quickly disable the motor by disconnecting the motor/ESC leads during setting-up and maintenance, or even swapping motors, then connectors are the preferred method.

I fit an alloy shield between the motor and receiver, made from a mackerel can lid, easy to cut and bend. Trim to fit in between the sides of the lower frame, up against the little returns either side of the bottom plate and fold the top to fit the motor mount plate.

Installation of all electronics will be easier to accomplish if the main rotor assembly complete with main shaft is removed and drop the main gear cluster out of the frame too.

Mount the CH2 (elevator) servo, on to the port side top frame, usually with most servos one needs to remove the servo top-casing, ensure the lead in through the aperture, then mount the top-case onto the frame from the inside and then reassemble the servo. With the Emax ES09D, feed the lead through the aperture and then simply mount the servo directly on to the outside of the frame and route the servo lead forwards along the inner side of the port top frame and zip-tie to frame via the cutouts.
Mount the CH1 (aileron) servo into the lower starboard front aperture.
Mount the CH6 (pitch) servo into the upper port front aperture.

With cyclic servos installed, and Collective at zero degrees in ID flight mode, all three cyclic servo arms need to be at 90 degrees to the main shaft, ideally all three link-rods need to be parallel to the main shaft, when viewed from side-on, but that may not be possible.

The position of the aperture for the rear servo CH2 (elevator) of generic upper frames may vary. On this HK 450 frame is 2mm forward of the correct position for the servo to Swash link rod to b vertical.
This will effect perpendicularity of the swashplate to the main shaft when the collective is rased and lowered.

As the arms deflect away from the horizontal the link ball arks away too. So for instance, if the balls move upwards by 5mm and horizontally by 1mm, if all three link rods where 90 degrees to their arms they will now be at the same inclination. Now if the CH2 (elevator) was already inclined at 2 degrees at zero pitch, it will now be at 90 degrees while the other two are not inclining the out of perpendicularity to the main shaft by minutes of arch. OK that's a small deflection, however, it is enough to deflect the rotor disk from the horizontal and will result in the heli tending to drift forwards.

Remove the top linchpin, pop-off the radius-arms and long D pitch link-rods from the swashplate, extract the main shaft complete with swashplate, refit main gear cluster, insert main shaft and refit the lower linchpin.

Fit the servo to swash link rods.
Start off with the servo to swash link rods at lengths:
M 31.3mm CH6 servo (pitch)
N 45.0mm CH1 servo (Aileron)
O 40.3mm CH2 servo (Elevator)

Due to the advent of FBL rotor systems, there are two types of levelling tools available, it's important to use the correct swashplate levelling tool, overall height 25.5mm foot radius 38mm for flybar system heads.

Easy enough to draw one using computer graphics and print out assemble using CA glue once saturated will effectively turn to plastic. Same thing goes for pitch gauges.

Here's one I made for levelling the T-rex 450 sports swashplate, the arms of which are wider than on the standard 450SEV2 swashplate.

Prepare the motor for installation: ensure the bore of the drive pinion is the correct size for the motor drive shaft; e.g., 3.175mm is too large for a 3.17mm shaft. Any eccentricity WILL generate vibrations. Align drive pinions are precision made so will run concentrically and when used in conjunction with an Align drive gear set the effect is a joy to behold.

Site the ESC: I alway fit them to the rear of the bottom plate better airflow for cooling and for achieving CoG when using a 3 cell battery. Three Motor leads out the back and forward between the rear skid leg and underside of the bottom plate; battery connector down through the forward rectangular aperture and keep to one side, motor leads down through the same aperture and back to connect with the three ESC leads.

Receiver: locate on the toe of the bottom plate, route the ESC lead down through that same forward aperture along one side of the motor aperture through between the bottom plate and the front skid leg and up into the receiver slot 3. Connect the battery and check the DoR of the motor. Them power down and disconnect two motor/ESC leads.

See photo:

Prepare to level the swashplate:

Trim-Tabs centred (set Collective to the bottom)
Sub Trim 00%
End Point 100%/%100
Dual Rates at 100%/%100
Swash Afr at CH1 50%, CH2 50%; CH6 50%

Pitch Curves:
For the first stage of setting-up the Swashplate, we need to use the Idle Up, curve in linier progression, i.e., 00%; 25%; 50%; 75%; 100%
We need the correct type of swashplate levelling tool for the clone T-rex450SEV2 which has a 23mm high centre boss and overall height of 25.5mm.

Remove the upper portions of the rotor head leaving the swashplate connected to the cyclic servo link rods.

First take note of how level the swash is at mid-stick, top-stick, and bottom-stick, also check at maximum up Collective, the top of the levelling tool needs to be level with the bottom of the top drilling in the main shaft when...(See note (ii) below)
This will give some idea of which way to adjust servo link rods when at mid-stick.

The adjustment resolution will depend the thread-pitch of the link-rods. If unable to achieve perpendicularity by adjusting the link rods, then and only then use the Sub-Trims for CH1, Ch2, & CH6.

Next level with the Collective stick at maximum. Level by adjusting the upper End Points, till (note ii) the top of the levelling tool alines with the bottom the top drilling in the main shaft.

Next level with the Collective stick at bottom. Level by adjusting the lower End Points.

Now check very closely for any negative interactions the legs of the levelling tool must keep in contact with the arms of the swashplate throughout the full up and down movements of the Collective stick, specially above and below the 75% region this is where the swashplate will be in Normal Flight Mode when coming up to and in hovering.

Once the levelling procedure has been complete we need to equalise the maximum pitch deflections. Keep the last three percentages in both curves identical and set the first of the ID range for negative pitch angle.

These settings seem to work OK:
ID......20%; 55%; 75%; 87%; 100%
Normal..50%; 62%; 75%; 87%; 100%

Both Idle Up and Normal will then have identical maximum positive deflections, and at bottom stick in normal flight mode there should be zero pitch, so if needs be reduce the EP0 percentage to achieve 0 degrees.

Refit the main rotor assembly.

Do the setting of the blade pitch via one main blade, that way the blade pitch will be a known factor, if the tracking is out then do any adjustments via the other blade, thus preserving the pitch setting.

Check the maximum pitch deflection ideally aim for 10 to 12 degrees, if not, adjust CH6 in SWASH Afr. 11 is good for initial learning.

Normally, the Normal flight mode pitch curve would be from the mid point of the Idle Up curve like this: -
ID 00%; 25%; 50%; 75%; 100%
Normal 50%; 62%; 75%; 87%; 100%

However, doing so with this transmitter has an odd effect, the whole normal pitch range moves upwards. With the collective at top stick position, toggle SW(B) from ID to Normal and the servo-arm deflections increase. Not sure why right now...need for further investigation.

Next basic dynamic setting up

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