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Walkera HM60 B


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Iced_E
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Joined: 11 Aug 2010
Posts: 2
Location: Kirkenes/Norway

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:22 pm
PostPost subject: Walkera HM60 B
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Hi, I am a NEWBIE in this heli buisness. After a lot of thinking, I finally ordered a Walker HM60B spesial edition.
Anyone got experiance from this heli? How difficult is it to set it up for a rookie pilot??
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akhileshgarwal
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Joined: 23 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:09 pm
PostPost subject: walkera 60#B problems-need help
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My son, a beginner to RC helis, chose to buy a Walkera 60#B[2,4 GHz] rc heli, which was too advanced for his skill level, and he promptly crashed it. I am into aeromodelling with some experience with beginner’s helis such as Blade CX 2, and as his father and comparatively more experienced aeromodeller, I wanted to impress him and am trying to fix it, but find I need a lot of help !

The first problem was that the receiver and servos would not respond to the transmitter. The system is 2,4 GHz. Thinking that the receiver went bad in the crash[transmitters rarely do], I bought a spare receiver, but it wouldn’t respond either, so I figured it was a binding problem. I used another 2,4 GHz transmitter and luckily it binded ! Now I’m using the original Tx and it binds. However, there are some problems with the TX. It is set up in mode 2[throttle LH stick], but rudder stick does not work, though rudder trim does. On RH side, the elevator stick works, but the trim doesn’t. I opened the Tx and found that old batteries remained in the Tx and leaked onto the rudder pot. I tried removing the pot, it is devilishly difficult. I checked the pot resistance, it is 5k and varies, which means the pot is working, but still rudder stick control is not. Are the stick and trim pots in the same voltage sensing circuit, ie are the stick and trim pots in series or parallel ? Why is it that it in case of rudder, the trim works but the stick doesn’t while in case of elevator the stick works but the trim doesn’t. Can this problem be fixed ?

The rudder trim works, but only when the rudder servo is plugged into the receiver directly. If the rudder is plugged into the WK-G011 Gyro and the gyro is plugged into the receiver rudder output, the rudder servo stops working. The Gyro LED comes on[quick flash, which means the gyro is in the process of initialization when the power is turned on] but then goes off[which means the gyro is in normal mode or the power is turned off]. If the rudder trim is adjusted , at some position, the led blinks twice[which means that a] the rudder servo bellcrank is being adjusted or b]the neutral position of the rudder servo has drifted, and the neutral position has to be reset]. With the gyro connected, the rudder servo does not work. Is the gyro bad or does gyro sensitivity and rudder mixing require adjustment ?

The next problem is that the main gear teeth were stripped and I replaced it. Unfortunately, while working on the Tx, I accidently moved the Mode selector slide switch, so the throttle function moved to the rh stick and the elevator function to the left hand stick. When I fired up, the rotor started off at medium speed and I did not know how to stop it. I discovered the cause by chance when I moved the RH elevator stick and found it controlling the throttle ! Luckily I did not have a serious accident, but the teeth of the main gear stripped again. I changed the gear again and this time I have lubricated them with grease.

Then I found the aileron servo was bad and changed it, using another small heli servo. But the direction of arm movement was opposite, so I had to open the servo and interchange the motor and pot wires. Luckily it now works in the right direction.

I tried to get the heli to lift off by adjusting the tail rotor pitch manually to keep it from turning too much, but the rotor shook/vibrated a lot, particularly when I increased throttle. I balanced the rotor blades by adding electrical tape near the cg[ the two blades were badly unbalanced] and it helped a lot in reducing the vibration. I checked the pitch adjustment by disconnecting the brushless motor and giving throttle. My understanding is that a beginner’s setting is -3 to 4 degrees at 0, +5,5 degrees at half throttle , and +9 to 10 degrees at full throttle. But I find that upto half throttle, there is no change in rotor pitch and from half to full throttle, the pitch does change to + 5 degrees or so. Is it a case of bad pitch adjustment or wrong programming of exponential ?

I adjusted the rotor blade pitch to 10 degrees at full throttle and was able to lift off by giving a sharp burst of throttle. But the rotor is not stable, it tends to tilt to one side and the direction of tilt moves around-I believe its called toilet bowl effect. Is it bad tracking or due to bad flybar adjustment ?
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barry711
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Joined: 11 Oct 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 6:08 pm
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i also had problems with my Walkera lama during take off when it started spinning fastly and start bending sideways.Then a friend of mine told me that there is some problem with its motor,then i take it back to shop and replace it with a new one,now i have no such problem and i am enjoying Walkera's flight.
Nitrotek
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Burgess
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Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 1073
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:43 am
PostPost subject: Re: Walkera HM60 B
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Iced_E wrote:
Hi, I am a NEWBIE in this heli buisness. After a lot of thinking, I finally ordered a Walker HM60B spesial edition.
Anyone got experiance from this heli? How difficult is it to set it up for a rookie pilot??



Hello Iced_E.

I fly amongst others a Walkera 60#b and two Walkera 36#Bs.

Which Transmitter do you have?
Do you have any training gear?

Burgess
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Burgess
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Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 1073
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 6:51 am
PostPost subject: Re: walkera 60#B problems-need help
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akhileshgarwal wrote:
My son, a beginner to RC helis, chose to buy a Walkera 60#B[2,4 GHz]...but find I need a lot of help !

I adjusted the rotor blade pitch to 10 degrees at full throttle and was able to lift off by giving a sharp burst of throttle. But the rotor is not stable, it tends to tilt to one side and the direction of tilt moves around-I believe its called toilet bowl effect. Is it bad tracking or due to bad flybar adjustment ?


OK, exactly which 2.4ghz transmitter do you have what is the name and model number for that transmitter?

When you used that other TX did all the channels work with input from the sticks and from the trims?

The problem with the pots, is more than likely corrosion when batteries leak corrosive vapours will have attacked anything it could reach in the transmitter. For reasons of being an RC helicopter, it would be far safer to replace the transmitter altogether.

This equipment for example is not expensive and works very well I have one. You will have no problems setting up the Walkera 60#B with it. UKP £54.00 for transmitter and receiver.
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/giantcod-24ghz-6channel-mode2-digital-transmitter-plane-versio-p-403852.html

Nevertheless,

WK-G011 Gyro
When the system is energized and during initialization the LED flashes, when the gyro has established the neutral point, the LED goes off if the sensitivity is set to [normal] rates mode, in the transmitter.

If the rudder trim is adjusted the gyro detects the that change and the LED flashes indicating that the manual control settings no-longer match the neutral point set in the gyro when it was initialized. So, if you've made adjustment to the trim to stabilise yaw control of the heli set it down and disconnect the battery and reconnect that will get the gyro to set a corrected neutral point.

An extremely fast start-up will rip the teeth off the main gear even if there's grease on the teeth, because the pinion is acting like a router blade.

Cyclic servos need to be identical for reasons of torque and speed, if not swashplate response will be at best undependable, at wrest dangerous.

If the tail is vibrating sideways then gyro sensitivity too high, if it vibrates up and down the main blades are out of track or the main shaft and or the feathering shafts are bent.

Blade balancing: find the CoG for each blade and match the lighter to the heavier. When the CoG of each blade and their weights match within at least 0.1 of a gram.

These walkera blades are very good.
http://www.helipal.com/hm-60b-b--z-01-main-rotor-blade.html

http://www.helipal.com/hm-59dq-z-01-main-rotor-blade.html

You need to first set the pitch in 3D [idle Up] -10 degrees at full bottom stick and +10 degrees at full up stick and 0 zero degrees at mid stick.

Pitch in normal flight mode -1 degree at bottom stick, +5.5 degrees at mid stick and, +10 degrees at full stick.
How to Set the pitch curve depends on the transmitter you have.

What you're calling "toilet bowl effect" is probably down to swashplate not being level, not having identical cyclic servos, the paddles not set correctly, imbalanced flybar, or rotor housing main shaft not running concentrically. It can be quite difficult to get then spot on.

I hope that answers some of your questions, however, it would be advisable to do a complete set-up staring with mechanical set up and progressing to the transmitter.

Do you have training gear?



Burgess
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